Peruvian food

Tunki coffee grown by a farmer in the Cecovasa cooperative of Southeastern Peru was awarded “Coffee of the Year” and given the “People’s Choice Award” by the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA.) There were over 130 entries representing 22 countries at this year’s competition. This is a huge honor, and a great way for Peruvian farmers to be recognized throughout the world. Since this farmer won the award, the world has taken interest in the cooperative he belongs to, and many farmers will benefit from the attention the Tunki Coffee is receiving. The farmers at Cecovasa are committed to maintaining eco-friendly farming techniques that protect the land and resources, and the coffee is fair trade. To purchase a 500 gram bag, visit Mama Tina’s Tunki Coffee page. The Mama Tina’s brand offers a large variety of Peruvian Food items in stores on the East Coast of the United States.

This is a granadilla, or Peruvian passionfruit. The inside of the fruit is filled with seeds encased in a jelly-like coating, and the flavor is very sweet. Peruvians open the fruit and suck out the inside for a popular and healthy snack. It has a strange consistency if you’re not used to exotic fruits, but the taste is almost like candy. If you travel to Peru, try a granadilla and a lucuma, which is another popular Peruvian fruit. The lucuma flavor is used in ice cream and other treats, and is very sweet when eaten right out of the skin with a spoon.

In the native Quechua language of Peru, the phrase “pacha manca” means “earthen pot.” It refers to the cooking of meat, potatoes and vegetables in the ground, using a hole lined with stones. First the stones are heated over a fire. Next the food is placed on top of them. Then the fire is covered with earth and grass, forming an oven. It usually takes about an hour and a half to cook a large piece of meat using this technique. Known simply as Pachamanca, this dish is served throughout several areas of Peru, particularly in the Huancayo region. I tasted it on our recent trip to the area, and it was delicious. The meat was tender, and was accompanied by three different kinds of potatoes, lima beans, and tamales. The photo to the right shows where my Pachamanca was cooked. I think it’s wonderful that this traditional form of cooking has remained an important part of Peruvian culture for centuries.

Now that I’ve gotten on the subject of exploring the best tiny cafes and restaurants in Lima, I have to mention Morgana Cafe. Located on the back side of the Indian (Artisan) Market in Miraflores, it’s a comfortable spot to relax after shopping.  For those who don’t know the area, the Artisan Market is located on Petit Thours, which is parallel to Calle General Suarez.  Cafe Morgana gets a mention for having comfortable couches and unrushed service, which also makes it a nice place to catch up with a friend. Their cappuccino and expresso are very good, and the desserts are delicious. Another nice feature is that they offer their sandwiches and pastries at special prices for large parties.  For example, 100 mini-sandwiches made with chicken, peaches and pecans: 100 soles (div by 2.80 to get amount in dollars). Try 100 tiny empanadas for 60 soles, or 100 mini eclairs in chocolate or caramel: 80 soles.

Since I spend a lot of time in the Miraflores section of Lima, I’ve had the chance to explore many of the little cafes and restaurants in the area. One I tried recently that deserves some special credit is El 550. There are two locations, and the newer Miraflores restaurant is located at Avenida 2 de Mayo 385. The first thing I noticed was the beautiful menu, which has entertaining names for creative dishes. Some of the most interesting creations include Lasagna filled with Aji de Gallina and Canneloni filled with Seco Norteno. The chocolate dome dessert served with a cinnamon flavored ice cream and sugar coated almonds is unbelievable, and the perfect way to end a meal. I will definitely be back to this restaurant.

Coffee lovers must visit Arabica Expresso Bar, a very small cafe on Recavvarren 269 in the Miraflores district of Lima.  They serve light food, desserts, lattes, cappuccinos, etc., but the reason I went there recently was to taste TUNKI, which is an organic coffee grown in Puno. I was told it won 1st prize for Best Specialty Coffee in at a worldwide coffee contest, and later found out that not only is that true, but with this recognition, it is now selling for very high prices in the countries it is exported to. Right now that list only includes the US, Spain and and England, and surprisingly, Arabica is the only place serving it in Lima.  After tasting it for myself, I can see why this Peruvian coffee it is so highly recommended; a very strong cup of coffee with absolutely no bitterness.  I bought a pound for myself , and as I walked through a book store on my way home, I could smell the very strong aroma coming from the bag I was holding.  I can’t wait to bring it home and share it with friends!

Lima will host Mistura, a celebration of Peruvian food, from September 7th to September 12th this year. The event was once the dream of Gaston Accurio, one of Peru’s best known chefs. His goal is to show the world what makes Peruvian food so special, from the farmers who grow the fresh produce, to the fishermem and artisans who provide the seafood, cheeses and breads. Along with Peruvian cooking, the event will also celebrate the biodiversity that allows for such a variety of traditional dishes. Attendees will have the chance to sample an amazing array of appetizers, entrees and desserts from a variety of restaurants, and the displays will feature everything from traditional street food to gourmet cuisine. Chefs will give demonstrations, and there will also be a focus on green living and ethically produced products. As big fans of Peruvian food, we attended the event last year and loved it. We’ll be there again this year, and can’t wait!

You probably wouldn’t find this welcoming little cafe on your own.  It’s hidden from view down a small alley called Pasaje el Sushe, off Avenida la Paz in Miraflores.  Run by two women who handle everything from the cooking to the serving, it seats nine at three little tables and three more on the charming front porch, though the cold weather these days makes that a less inviting alternative.  I hear that on a busy day – which is likely to become more and more common – they pull two chairs up to a barrel in the corner and two stools up to a slender bar against the wall.  There are usually three alternatives at lunch at least one of which is a pasta dish and one of which is a traditional Peruvian dish.  Our friend called in advance to reserve our choices as they prepare a limited number of plates and once they run out, that’s it for that day. The escabeche de pollo was a wonderful rendition enjoyed by two of us while our friend chose the vegetarian lasagna.  Her generous portion looked as beautiful as it must have tasted as she finished every last bite.  The homemade desserts included a pear cake with cream cheese frosting, a chocolate turron, maracuya cheesecake and apple pie.  Incredible food, personal service and a comforting space where regular customers greet one another with familiarity.  My cappuccino was the perfect ending to a memorable meal made all the more special by the fact that it was just my midday lunch, something I can doubtlessly expect to repeat and I’ll seek out Limoncello often.

A new documentry titled De Ollas y Sueños, or Cooking Up Dreams, is playing in Lima this week. The film covers the rise of Peruvian cuisine, and features scenes with famous chefs such as Gaston Acurio. In an article for Living in Peru, Nathan Paluck writes, “It’s 75 minutes of people profiles, swirling saucepans and hundred-years-old cooking methods.” The national cuisine is as much a part of Peruvian culture as the language and the landscape, and this film shows viewers how Peruvian food is now impacting the world. As Paluck says, it is safe to say Peruvian food has arrived.