In the native Quechua language of Peru, the phrase “pacha manca” means “earthen pot.” It refers to the cooking of meat, potatoes and vegetables in the ground, using a hole lined with stones. First the stones are heated over a fire. Next the food is placed on top of them. Then the fire is covered with earth and grass, forming an oven. It usually takes about an hour and a half to cook a large piece of meat using this technique. Known simply as Pachamanca, this dish is served throughout several areas of Peru, particularly in the Huancayo region. I tasted it on our recent trip to the area, and it was delicious. The meat was tender, and was accompanied by three different kinds of potatoes, lima beans, and tamales. The photo to the right shows where my Pachamanca was cooked. I think it’s wonderful that this traditional form of cooking has remained an important part of Peruvian culture for centuries.
From the monthly archives:
August 2010
Peruvians are very proud of their handicrafts, and in many areas, the textiles are remarkably beautiful. One interesting way artisans are using these textiles is by placing them inside jewelry, just like the butterfly wing in the Butterfly Wing Pendant to the left. I don’t have a photo of the textiles jewelry right now, but this butterfly wing is used in the same way. Most of these Peruvian jewelry pieces are sterling silver, with a thin glass set over the textile. The result is a unique accessory that also becomes a tiny display case. The colors that can be used in this kind of artisan jewelry are basically endless, and different shapes and sizes can be made to cater to any woman’s personal style. Artisan necklaces, earrings, and bracelets featuring textiles from different parts of Peru are now becoming popular in the markets of Lima.
On our most recent excursion outside of Lima, we took the train through the mountains to Huancayo. Its a twelve and a half hour ride, but the views are worth the time. Once the train reaches the mountains, there are fascinating rock formations, cliffs, valleys, and lakes around every corner. Since the mountains are so steep, the train has to climb them in a zig zag pattern – this is why the trip takes so long. There are several switch backs along the way, which is when the train backs up to make the change to another track up the mountain. There are a few opportunities to get out and walk around, which also allows for some great photo opportunities. Although some travelers suffer from altitude sickness, you shouldn’t let that stop you from visiting this breathtaking area. If you follow a few simple tips, you should be fine. First, drink the cocoa leaf tea that they offer on the train and in many of the little restaurants in the area. It helps a lot with the effects of altitude. Also, resist the urge to enjoy more than one or two drinks from the bar car. Alcohol worsens the effects of altitude. Try not to eat large meals the day of your trip and the first night when you arrive in Huancayo. Also, remember that the air is thinner, so don’t overexert yourself physically. Take it easy until you can tell how the altitude affects you. I had a very slight headache on the train, but I felt little to no affect from the altitude. However, if you don’t take precautions you could end up sick on your trip. In order to enjoy the beautiful mountains of Peru, just follow the tips above and it will be a trip to remember.
Now that I’ve gotten on the subject of exploring the best tiny cafes and restaurants in Lima, I have to mention Morgana Cafe. Located on the back side of the Indian (Artisan) Market in Miraflores, it’s a comfortable spot to relax after shopping. For those who don’t know the area, the Artisan Market is located on Petit Thours, which is parallel to Calle General Suarez. Cafe Morgana gets a mention for having comfortable couches and unrushed service, which also makes it a nice place to catch up with a friend. Their cappuccino and expresso are very good, and the desserts are delicious. Another nice feature is that they offer their sandwiches and pastries at special prices for large parties. For example, 100 mini-sandwiches made with chicken, peaches and pecans: 100 soles (div by 2.80 to get amount in dollars). Try 100 tiny empanadas for 60 soles, or 100 mini eclairs in chocolate or caramel: 80 soles.
Since I spend a lot of time in the Miraflores section of Lima, I’ve had the chance to explore many of the little cafes and restaurants in the area. One I tried recently that deserves some special credit is El 550. There are two locations, and the newer Miraflores restaurant is located at Avenida 2 de Mayo 385. The first thing I noticed was the beautiful menu, which has entertaining names for creative dishes. Some of the most interesting creations include Lasagna filled with Aji de Gallina and Canneloni filled with Seco Norteno. The chocolate dome dessert served with a cinnamon flavored ice cream and sugar coated almonds is unbelievable, and the perfect way to end a meal. I will definitely be back to this restaurant.
Coffee lovers must visit Arabica Expresso Bar, a very small cafe on Recavvarren 269 in the Miraflores district of Lima. They serve light food, desserts, lattes, cappuccinos, etc., but the reason I went there recently was to taste TUNKI, which is an organic coffee grown in Puno. I was told it won 1st prize for Best Specialty Coffee in at a worldwide coffee contest, and later found out that not only is that true, but with this recognition, it is now selling for very high prices in the countries it is exported to. Right now that list only includes the US, Spain and and England, and surprisingly, Arabica is the only place serving it in Lima. After tasting it for myself, I can see why this Peruvian coffee it is so highly recommended; a very strong cup of coffee with absolutely no bitterness. I bought a pound for myself , and as I walked through a book store on my way home, I could smell the very strong aroma coming from the bag I was holding. I can’t wait to bring it home and share it with friends!
On our most recent trip to (we’ll be back and forth a lot in the next couple of months) we spent a lot of time in the artisan markets. The array of handmade goods is always amazing, and just when you think you’ve seen it all, there is another booth with a different variety of creative designs. As always, my favorite areas of the market are the ones that feature sterling silver Peruvian jewelry. When I first started thinking of ways to bring this jewelry to women in the US, I spent hundreds of hours looking at the work of different artisans, and finding the best quality and most interesting designs. The work I put in then is what allows me to easily find the best designs, but I’m also always open to working with new artisans who are using their creativity to make unique Peruvian earrings, bracelets and necklaces. My favorite designs are often the ones that are distinctly Peruvian but still made with a sense of universal style that anyone would appreciate. These Huayruro seed earrings made it into the collection because the paring of native seeds and elegant sterling silver beads creates a modern look that still maintains a sense of Peruvian culture.
Lima will host Mistura, a celebration of Peruvian food, from September 7th to September 12th this year. The event was once the dream of Gaston Accurio, one of Peru’s best known chefs. His goal is to show the world what makes Peruvian food so special, from the farmers who grow the fresh produce, to the fishermem and artisans who provide the seafood, cheeses and breads. Along with Peruvian cooking, the event will also celebrate the biodiversity that allows for such a variety of traditional dishes. Attendees will have the chance to sample an amazing array of appetizers, entrees and desserts from a variety of restaurants, and the displays will feature everything from traditional street food to gourmet cuisine. Chefs will give demonstrations, and there will also be a focus on green living and ethically produced products. As big fans of Peruvian food, we attended the event last year and loved it. We’ll be there again this year, and can’t wait!
You probably wouldn’t find this welcoming little cafe on your own. It’s hidden from view down a small alley called Pasaje el Sushe, off Avenida la Paz in Miraflores. Run by two women who handle everything from the cooking to the serving, it seats nine at three little tables and three more on the charming front porch, though the cold weather these days makes that a less inviting alternative. I hear that on a busy day – which is likely to become more and more common – they pull two chairs up to a barrel in the corner and two stools up to a slender bar against the wall. There are usually three alternatives at lunch at least one of which is a pasta dish and one of which is a traditional Peruvian dish. Our friend called in advance to reserve our choices as they prepare a limited number of plates and once they run out, that’s it for that day. The escabeche de pollo was a wonderful rendition enjoyed by two of us while our friend chose the vegetarian lasagna. Her generous portion looked as beautiful as it must have tasted as she finished every last bite. The homemade desserts included a pear cake with cream cheese frosting, a chocolate turron, maracuya cheesecake and apple pie. Incredible food, personal service and a comforting space where regular customers greet one another with familiarity. My cappuccino was the perfect ending to a memorable meal made all the more special by the fact that it was just my midday lunch, something I can doubtlessly expect to repeat and I’ll seek out Limoncello often.
Nine riders rode Peruvian Pasos from Lambayeque to La Libertad recently, in an effort to raise interest in horseback tourism in Peru. It was the second annual horseback trip of its kind, and the riders were greeted with enthusiasm from everyone they passed during their eight day trip. Peruvian Pasos have been used for travel in Peru for centuries. They are known as strong, elegant horses that offer a smooth, comfortable ride. Now that Peruvians are promoting their use in the tourism industry, more people may be able to experience Peru from the back of one of these majestic animals.
